Monday, October 19, 2009

PINGYAO//平遥

Last week, anticipating the need to actually start my research in earnest, I chose instead to flee for a few days to the ancient (Ming/Qing) walled city of Pingyao, located an overnight train (or superfast 3-hour hi-speed train) away from Beijing in the province of Shanxi. It was excellent: restful and cheering. Here are some pictures and notes.

I stayed in a charming courtyard hotel (my room was on the upper right)...

...and enjoyed the coziest of platform beds and the prettiest of wooden screens scattering the sunlight.


Around Town/在城市里


I liked the mural of Snow White and a few of the seven dwarves at this kindergarten.


Fresh 红枣 (red dates), tasting like their darker cousins but with an apple-like crunch. My favorite Autumn fruit.


The Old City Wall/古城


I made a friend at the Northeast tower. Something about him reminded me of someone I know though I can't imagine what.



Shuanglin Temple/双林寺, just outside the city


The Qiao Family Compound/乔家大圆 (where Zhang Yimou's Raise the Red Lantern was filmed)


More new friends. We spent some time 在吹牛 (blowing-cow, or "shooting the bull") and then I took their picture in the garden.

Thursday, September 10, 2009

DAMN YOU VOLDEMORT

At the end of July I left Indiana for my month of west coast weddings, truly sad to say goodbye to friendly little summertime Bloomington. In the last week of errand running I tried to freeze some of the local characters in my memory – the preternaturally enthusiastic checker at the drugstore, my favorite mailman, the two warm and gregarious ladies that run my favorite café/antique store. I was happy to leave my tiny study tank of a studio but a bit sad to fold up my Murphy bed for the very last time.

It was a sweet and pleasant couple of months, especially considering that summer is usually my least favorite season. I found it hard to complain though, with nothing to do but go places, see people, and read/digest at least two books per day. I planned many a blog post in my head but hardly a one made it onto the interwebs.

August brought weddings and a few panicked weeks of exam-prep wrap-up. In the anti-climactic moping that followed the completion of my written exams on August 19th I picked up Montana’s copy of the first Harry Potter. And so it began. So I’m sorry if I haven’t blogged, or called you, or written on your wall. Blame Voldemort. In San Francisco, Bloomington and Seattle I went to bars/shows/lunch dates/parties or just sat on buses and trains, taking every possible opportunity to sneak away and read.

Here is how the last few weeks looked in pictures and in books:

Riding Seattle's new light rail (book 1):

Rainier Beach station is close to my mother's house in South Seattle and has my favorite public art of all: stele against which one can measure one's height relative to types of horses, neolithic men, or dinosaurs. I am approximately the same height as a Euoplocephalus.

Seattle -> San Francisco on the Amtrak (books 1 & 2):

San Francisco (books 3 & 4):

826 Valencia, home of McSweeney's tutoring center, retail outlet, and pirate store.

Drawer o' serpents

Fish tank viewing room

This is kind of like the lord's prayer, only for pirates

The Headlands, Marin County:
Vanessa-raptor

Mary Stewart Mastercat:

Bloomington, IN (book 5):

Sarah-saurus saying brilliant things at Upland on our last night in town
Graffiti in the ladies restroom at the Vid

Seattle, HOME (book 6):

Laura & Mark get married (and I don't have to go to any more weddings for at least a year!)

Montana + Misty + Me

Book 7 has been obtained and will be accompanying me and my smoked-salmon stuffed luggage aboard a Beijing-bound plane early tomorrow morning. Goodbye lovers. I'll miss you all very much.

Tuesday, August 4, 2009

GO BY TRAIN

July went by slow and fast: each day blurring into the next, but every hour scheduled and delimited by the books to be read and crossed off the list; the tasks to be completed; the judiciously allotted "fun times" to be had. I spent my days reading, reading, reading, and sometimes typing up notes and that made every daily tedium all the more pleasant (the uncharacteristically mild summer weather helped as well). I shopped for groceries in a happy daze, watched the dappled sunlight move through my tiny little house, and was almost obscenely gleeful on Upland Tuesdays and Blammo weekends. And I mustn't forget to mention the square dancing, fly fishing, or visit to the Exotic Feline Rescue Center. Summer is usually my least favorite season, but this summer, in a surprise twist, has been the best one I can remember.

I can't say it was the best of all my 31 years because I've just been going through some old baby pictures at my mom's house and I don't know if I'll EVER be THIS happy again in all my days:

But I digress.

Between leaving Bloomington and hunkering back down to the books (um, kind of) at my mom's new house in Seattle, a few things happened:
  • Carly and Eric got married, but I missed the ceremony due to plane issues in Indy and a missed connection.
  • I spent a night in a Phoenix hotel without cash, credit cards, or any luggage.
  • I was tearfully reunited with my luggage at the lovely PDX airport.
  • I got to the reception in time to eat cake, drink Marionberry Courvoisier, and play pinball with a guy called Sauce (short for Applesauce, of course).
I won't dwell on my travel fail aside from relating one tiny moment in Phoenix that kind of made my night.

It was 8:30pm and I had just left the US Airways customer service desk after failing to convince them to help me find my luggage or put me on an earlier flight out. The nice man at the desk gave me a dinner voucher and directed me to a cafe on the other side of security where I ordered a soup & salad from a visibly embittered middle-aged man in a corporate-logo emblazoned apron and ball cap. Rarely have I come across an individual whose every word and movement were so resonant with scorn. I can't imagine working at the Phoenix airport is a particularly sweet gig.

The man asked if I wanted tortilla chips or sour cream in my tomato soup and when I expressed interest in the latter he reached for a squeeze bottle and began aggressively squirting it into my bowl. I considered asking him to go easy on it, but truthfully, he frightened me a little. "I don't know if you can see the smiley face I drew," he said, after fitting a plastic lid to the top of the bowl and handing it to me over the counter.

I took a look at the now squashed down white squiggles. "Actually, I think it's a more accurate representation of how most people in the airport feel", I said. "Yeah", he conceded, evincing nothing so obvious as a smile but seeming to soften a bit in the shoulders, "it's more like a snarl". I think I would have hugged him if I had the chance but instead I just said thank you and hustled off to find the hotel shuttle.

I spent less than 24 hours in Portland, boarding a train after sharing a Bloody Mary brunch with the new couple and the family of the bride, wonderful people I've known for almost 20 years now.

I had hoped to get some work done during the journey seeing as I've gotten well behind on my quals reading and prep after the last week of packing/moving/traveling, but the scenery was just so pretty! I know I'll be taking the same route in a few weeks on my way to San Francisco but that wasn't enough to keep my attention from constantly drifting out the window to the heavenly Northwest summer. It's so good to be home.

Monday, July 6, 2009

WEDDINGS OF THE WEST COAST: COUGTOUR 2009

I have finally sorted, scheduled, and generally attained domination over the few months remaining before my next departure for China. I've shared my plans with many of you, but I publish it here in the hopes that it may serve as reminder and reference. Some dates are approximations, however, if you are one of the 4 couples whose weddings I am attending in Aug/Sept, be assured that I will be there.

Present day - July 31st = Bloomington, Indiana

July 31st - August 2nd = Portland, Oregon

August 2nd - August 20th = Seattle, Washington

*******Amtrak interval*********

August 22rd - August 27th = San Francisco, California


August 27th - September 2nd = Bloomington, Indiana

September 2nd - September 9th = Seattle, Washington

September 10th - August 2010 = Beijing, Fuyang City, and all places west, People's Republic of China


Many of you will be relieved to hear that I will not, as originally planned, be traveling to North Korea during my stay in China, though I may take a little trip to Vietnam and/or Taiwan and I'll be traveling around the country as much as possible for research/volunteer work. But most of the time, I'll probably be right here:

Come and visit, won't you?